If you have been using the normal lawn care procedures on your lawn (including dethatching, raking, over seeding, aeration, application of fertilizers, regular watering) and your lawn is still not responding, then sod replacement may be the answer.  The following steps below should help you through the process.

The first step is to prepare for putting down the new sod.  There are two basic ways to remove the sod.  One way is to take out the old sod, possibly using a sod cutter, by cutting the old lawn into manageable pieces for easy pick up and disposal.  You can use a wheel barrow to put the old sod in, and a shovel (preferably an edging shovel), to cut the roots of the old sod out at about an inch below ground level.  After the old sod is removed, use a rake to remove remaining root debris and to smooth the area until it is flat and smooth.  Then spread approximately 1/2 inch of topsoil while making sure the new sod will be flush with the older lawn.

Another way to remove the old lawn is by using a herbicide such as Roundup and give the lawn 2 – 3 weeks to die.  Then till the wand.  Rent a bigger tiller then is used for garden work because it is heavier work.  Trim sod from edges and hard to reach places with a shovel.  Several passes may be required with the tiller.  Tilling the old lawn under is also a good time to check the lawn area for drainage.  Regrade the area you are working on to the way you want it.  Haul extra soil to spots needing elevation.  Rake off remaining root debris and smooth the area until it is flat and smooth (but leave as much plant matter as possible).

The lawn is now ready for the new sod.  Flag underground sprinklers, etc.  Just unroll to install the sod making sure not to leave any gaps along the edges and that the joints are as tight as possible.  Try to stagger where one roll of sod starts and stops to the next roll of sod so the that edges of your sod rolls are staggered and to increase the strength of the new lawn to the ground underneath.  Just let the sod roll out around flower beds, etc.  After the sod is laid, you can go around and trim the edges the way you desire (along flowerbeds for example) with an edging shovel or, for more detailed work, a utility knife.  You can use a water-filled sod roller and run across the lawn to smooth edges and press roots into the soil underneath.  Then make sure that all the edges of the sod around the area that you installed are tamped (with a tamper or your hand), so that the bottom of the sod is not directly exposed to the elements (which can risk drying out the sides of the sod area before the roots take hold).  If the sod is on a hill you may need to install sod staples (available at your garden center) to keep the sod in place for when you water and for heavier rainfalls.

The new sod requires lots of water to build roots, so water 2 times a day, 30 minutes each time.  If you see pools developing stop watering, and ensure that the water is distributing itself evenly over the new sod area (if there is too big a problem, you may have to remove some sod to get the area level, or the grade that you want, before putting the sod back down).

If you have any questions about your lawn sod replacement needs, please call Ram Cleaning Services @ 403-291-1051 and talk to one of our lawn care specialists.

Complete Cleaning Maintenance and Care in Calgary and area since 1967

Air Conditioner Filters – the most important aspect of maintenance to ensure energy efficiency.  Plugged, dirty filters can significantly reduce the systems air flow and increase energy costs 5-15 %.  Air conditioner filters are primarily there to protect other important parts that cool the air, from becoming dirty.  Filters in central air conditioners are usually located in the return ducting, or in the air conditioner itself; in room air conditioners, the filter is usually in the front of the air conditioner behind the grill.  For reusable filters, wash with warm water (add some liquid detergent if necessary), let dry, and put back in.  Disposable filters are just exchanged for new ones.

Depending on conditions (pets, dust, traffic, etc.), check and maintain your air conditioning filter every 1-2 months in the months that the system operates.

Before working on an air conditioner, unplug it, or disconnect power to the unit.

Air Conditioner Coils – an air conditioner has 2 coils, and evaporator coil, and a condenser coil.  They collect dust and dirt over time.  Even with a clean filter, an evaporator coil is going to get dirty over time.  This layer of dirt will insulate the coil, reducing its’ ability to absorb heat.  Check evaporator pads and clean as necessary yearly.  Check with your home hardware stores to get the right cleaner such as “Coil Cleaner”.  Be careful not to get electrical wires wet.

Condenser coils, typically outside, are exposed to the environment.  Debris, dust, etc. collect on the fins of the coil.  Clean the coil, and the area around the coil (leaves, litter, etc.) at least 2 feet back to allow for proper air flow.  Cover in winter to protect from weather and debris.

Air Conditioner Coil Fins – the fins of the coils can become bent, which blocks air flow through the coil.  You can get a tool from wholesalers, or larger retailers, that called a “fin comb” that combs fins back into their original straight position.

Condensate drains are the units drain channels.   Clogged, they will stop a unit from reducing humidity.  The excess moisture and humidity will affect windows, wall coverings, etc.  A stiff wire can be run through the drain channels to prevent this.

For room air conditioners located in a window, inspect the seal between the air conditioner and the window to make sure that the seal is tight and isn’t letting cooled air out.

After cleaning and maintenance procedures have been carried out, reconnect the power and test the unit.  Set to cooling and put to a low temperature to get the unit running.  The discharge air should be cold and smell fresh.

Note that an air conditioning system is a sealed system and once professionally and properly installed should not leak unless damaged by being hit by something.  Therefore it is not necessary to check or recharge the refrigerant levels in an air conditioner on a regular basis.

For a thorough check of your air conditioning unit, hire a professional.  Some maintenance that you might defer to a professional to oil motors and check belts, check and repair ducts for air leakage, check  refrigerant levels, measure air flow through the evaporator coil, and check the electrical system.

 If you have any questions about the cleaning or checking of your air conditioning, please call one of our Ram Cleaning specialists at 403-291-1051

Complete cleaning and maintenance care in Calgary and area since 1967

When it is time to clean your slate floor the following materials will be necessary -  a broom, dust mop, bucket with warm water and mild detergent (clothes washing detergent will work), and a mop for cleaning with (but check that it isn’t an oil-based mop).  Now proceed through the following steps:

1. sweep the floor thoroughly
2. use a dust mop to get the finer dust and particles – keep the mop moving in one direction instead of a back and forth motion which can just move dust and debris around
3. fill the bucket with 2-3 gallons of warm water and 1-2 tablespoons of laundry detergent (vary the amount of cleaning solution you mix to the size of your job).  Don’t use acid based cleaners such as vinegar that can cause damage to slate.
4. mop the slate floor with long slow smooth strokes, rinsing and wringing the mop frequently
5. clean the bucket and mop, refill the bucket with some warm water, and rinse the floor with another mopping (no detergent)
6. let the floor dry before walking; install wet floor signs if the slate floor has public traffic

When there are spills on slate flooring -

1. wipe up (and mop up if necessary) with paper toweling or clean cloths
2. in the grout lines use a small nylon brush to agitate and rinse if necessary
3. sprinkle on baking soda – dampen the grout with a wet sponge and then sprinkle with baking soda; let it sit for a few minutes then scrub with small stiff nylon brush (old tooth brushes can work but never use brushes with metal bristles on grout) and use the sponge to wipe down – if you are happy with the results, use this process as part of your regular cleaning maintenance program.
4. spray on hydrogen peroxide – hydrogen peroxide can weaken and discolor fibers but it is a very effective disinfectant (and will keep mold and mildew from growing in shower stalls, etc.); it may also lighten the grout as it works (so if you have colored grout test it first); dilute 50/50 with warm water and spray on; let sit 15 minutes; wipe off with a clean wet sponge; don’t mix it with anything else
5. for colored grout try shaving cream; test in an inconspicuous area; let sit for 15 minutes and rinse off
6. oxygen bleach time – oxygen bleach time won’t effect colors compared to chlorine bleach; however it takes more time for the oxygen reaction to work, so the longer you let it sit, the better it will work and the less agitation with brushes you will have to do; fill the grout lines with the oxygen bleach powder diluted in warm water; let sit for 30 minutes and then scrub lightly as you apply more solution to the grout lines; the oxygen ions will continue to work for up to 6 hours and will attack the most stubborn stains including red wine and beet juice; when you feel the job is complete, rinse the grout with a clean wet sponge.
7. steam cleaning – steam cleaning with pressure can dislodge particles and debris embedded in the grout that might not be dislodged with wiping; for smaller areas use an held hand iron on the steam setting about an inch above the grout; wipe off with a clean wet sponge when finished; because steam with pressure can dislodge bacteria from grout, it can be an effective and efficient method for large areas such as athletic locker rooms, etc. by a professional with large steam cleaning equipment.

If you have any questions about your tile and grout cleaning needs, call Ram Cleaning Services at 403-291-1051 and ask to speak to one of our cleaning representatives

Complete cleaning and maintenance in Calgary and area since 1967

The grout is the more difficult issue to clean because it is 1) recessed, and 2) because it has sand in it’s mixture which makes it porous.  For these reasons, grout stains can be difficult to remove.

Grout often has a sealant applied when new tile and grout are installed.  If grout sealer was not applied when it was first installed, then after it has been properly cleaned is a good time to apply it.  Check with your flooring representative for what sealer is best for your situation.  Marble and Granite for example are sensitive to certain chemicals.  Usually 2 or 3 applications of sealant are better then one.

There are different products that can be tried for grout cleaning, some readily available in the home, and others that can be purchased from a general store (see below).  If you are going to be cleaning on your hands and knees then wear knee pads to protect your knees because the tile is going to be very hard to kneel on; if using harsher cleaners, wear a particle mask and safety glasses.

To clean grout try first clean the grout with water and soap (such as diluted liquid dish soap) to remove loose debris and surface soil, and allow to dry, to determine what you now have to work with; to further improve the appearance of the grout you can then proceed to try the following:

1. baking soda – dampen the grout with a wet sponge and then sprinkle with baking soda; let it sit for a few minutes then scrub with a small stiff nylon brush (old tooth brushes can work but never use brushes with metal bristles on grout) and use the sponge to wipe down – if you are happy with the results, use this process as part of your regular cleaning maintenance program.
2. white vinegar – vinegar has many cleaning uses but it has a low pH (it is acidic) compared to most cleaners which work by having a higher pH (which is alkaline);  some grout cement is alkaline, and some natural stone tiles have alkaline properties, so to be safe, test the vinegar in an inconspicuous place; if there are no adverse affects, then proceed to your main work area; dilute 2 parts vinegar with 1 part water; spray it on the grout lines and let sit for 15 minutes; wipe with a damp sponge of baking soda mixed with water to neutralize the acidity of the vinegar; then rinse again with clean damp sponge.
3. hydrogen peroxide – hydrogen peroxide can weaken and discolor fibers but it is a very effective disinfectant (and will keep mold and mildew from growing in shower stalls, etc.) and will lighten the grout as it works (so test in an inconspicuous area); dilute 50/50 with warm water and spray on; let sit 15 minutes; wipe off with a clean wet sponge; don’t mix it with anything else;
4. oxygen bleach time – oxygen bleach time won’t effect colors compared to chlorine bleach; however it takes more time for the oxygen reaction to work, so the longer you let it sit, the better it will work and the less agitation with brushes you will have to do; fill the grout lines with the oxygen bleach powder diluted in warm water; let sit for 30 minutes and then scrub lightly as you apply more solution to the grout lines; the oxygen ions will continue to work for up to 6 hours and will attack the most stubborn stains including red wine and beet juice; when you feel the job is complete, rinse the grout with a clean wet sponge.
5. steam cleaning – steam cleaning with pressure can dislodge particles and debris embedded in the grout that might not be dislodged with wiping; for smaller areas use an held hand iron on the steam setting about an inch above the grout; wipe off with a clean wet sponge when finished; because steam with pressure can dislodge bacteria from grout, it can be an effective and efficient method for large areas such as athletic locker rooms, etc. by a professional with large steam cleaning equipment.

It the case that grout is loose and chunks are coming out as you clean, you should be able to match and blend in new grout, that is fairly easy to mix up and apply, and can be purchased from a tile or hardware store.

For more information on Tile and Grout Cleaning, call Ram Cleaning Services @403-291-1051 and speak to one of our cleaning specialists

Complete Cleaning and Maintenance Care in Calgary and area since 1967

Some specialized equipment will be required to do the job, specifically a slow speed floor machine and a wet/dry vac.  These can be rented from the larger hardware stores or tool rental shops.  Other supplies required include scrub pads for the scrubber (preferably black), a dust mop, several cotton or rayon blend mops, finish mops, a small cleaning brush,  a putty knife, garbage bags, floor fans, some extra rags, 3 buckets, a plastic dustpan and a rubber or foam floor squeegee; the floor product required includes stripper, neutralizer, sealer , and floor finish.  Also have personal protective equipment including rubber gloves, safety glasses and booties.  To mark off the area if other people are going to be around, have wet floor signs or caution tape.

Now proceed through the following steps.

1. Gather and organize all the supplies.
2. Remove furniture, rugs, and smaller items from the area to be worked on.
3. Sweep and/or vacuum as necessary the area.
4. Test the stripper in an inconspicuous area.  VA Tile and standard linoleum will be fine, but some older or specialty type lino may not withstand stripping.  Regular strippers have a high pH; select a rinse free stripper to minimize the worry of thorough rinsing.
5. Start in a corner farthest from your exit and work toward that exit.
6. Fill one of the three buckets with the floor finish diluted to specifications, and put the scrubbers scrapers and other tools into the other 2 buckets.
7. Bring all of this equipment to the corner of the area your are going to start from.
8. Use the mop to cover a 2 feet by 4 feet area with the stripper.  Cover the area thoroughly without flooding it (use enough stripper needed to break down the old wax).  If you are using a floor scrubber you can do an area 10 feet by 10 feet.
9. Let the stripper sit according to instructions, then use the floor pads to scrape away wax buildup (with a doodlebug and fitted piece of floor pad for a small area, or full pad and floor machine for the larger area); while scrubbing the first area, apply the stripper to a 2nd area and let it soak to be ready when you finish the first area.
10. Use the small cleaning brush for nooks and crannies, the putty knife where scraping is necessary.
11. Vac up, or squeegee the wax and stripper residue into the dustpan and deposit in the third bucket; use a mop and rags to soak up any excess residue that the squeegee or vacuuming misses.  Use a scraper to test areas to make sure that the stripping is complete (leftover wax will otherwise produce an uneven finished appearance).
12. Continue this process until the whole area has been stripped.  Don’t let the stripper dry before you can get to it because this can make it difficult to remove.  Wet vac the old wax and stripping solution right away (don’t dispose of this material into a sink as it could plug the drain – pour it through a filter first)
13. Rinse the floor with clean water to remove any more stripper.  Do a final rinse with neutralizer.
14. Let the floor dry thoroughly.  Apply floor fans and air movement to speed up the process (put on low to medium speed so as not to blow ceiling dust, etc . around).  Do a final check of the floor with clean footwear or new booties to sweep or vac off any debris, hair, dust, etc.
15. Good products are available that seal and finish floors in one step.  Typically 3 coats is a good balance.  Line an available mop bucket with a heavier gauge garbage bag to poor the finish into – make sure the wheels of the mop bucket are clean and don’t get wet with finish that will leave marks.  Don’t use too much floor finish to help avoid ‘wax buildup’, especially in corners and along edges.  With a clean mop (can be microfiber) try using figure 8 circular motions for the applications.  Try to lay smooth coatings without drippings.  If your application is leaving bubbles then you are putting too much down.  Missed areas on the first coat can be covered on later coats.  Let areas completely dry between coatings (20-40 minutes, always quicker with air movement – don’t blow air directly close on an area that could case distortions or ripples in the wax on the floor).  After the 2nd coat, walk on with socks and booties only and not hard soles that may leave marks on the finish.
16. Let cure overnight.  For a nicer finish, burnish the floor with a high speed floor machine.
17. If you have to redo an area, tape off that small area so that you can just focus on that area.
18. When cleaning daily use a neutral cleaner to protect the floor finish from being taken off.

If you have any questions about Strip, Seal and Wax procedures, call Ram Cleaning Services  403-291-1051 and talk to one of our cleaning specialists

serving Calgary and area since 1967