The Tucker Pole System is designed to connect to a standard garden hose and consists of lightweight aircraft-type aluminum tubes. The system uses 100% pure de-ionised water which evaporates without leaving smears or spots on the glass and doesn’t use chemicals or cause environmental damage.

Frames, sills and ledges can be cleaned at the same time as the windows; if external fascias or panelled style buildings are being cleaned, an environmentally friendly cleaner can be added.

Poles are telescopic and can be used at low level and even on conservatory roofs.

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1. Air out your house – as weather permits open windows to let in fresh air. In general, try to leave windows open a little so that you are always letting in some fresh air.

2. Use scented cleaning products – when you clean your home, use cleaning products that have a nice smell to them; then, not only will a thorough cleaning remove residues, etc. that contain odor, but the cleaning will leave a nice smell.

3. Flowers – fresh flowers are a nice way to keep your home smelling fresh and clean. In addition to keeping your home smelling fresh and clean, flowers can be a nice way to decorate your home.

4. Use air fresheners – experiment until you find one that works good for you. Try natural fresheners made from real citrus fruits that come in recyclable spray cans. Also, the Febreeze product line claims to eliminate odors and not just cover them.

5. Try candles – scented candles are a good way to add good aromas to your home. Beeswax candles burn cleaner than ordinary candles and release a gentle honey aroma.

6. Potpourri – it doesn’t have to be a holiday season to enjoy the smell of potpourri. Potpourri is a natural perfume that is a mixture of dry flowers, leaves, essential oils and spices . It is one of the best ways to make a home smell good. Place them next to places where bad odors can originate.

7. Scented pine cones – a basketful of pine cones can make your house smell like the country. If you have pine trees in your yard, use fallen pine cones to bring the smell of the mountain into your home.

8. Grind the peel of citrus fruit (lemon, lime, orange or grapefruit) in your garbage disposal to release a sweet citrus scent.

9. Stick whole cloves into orange or lemon peels or wedges for a crisp clean scent.

10. Simmer cinnamon sticks or a sprinkle of cinnamon powder, apple slices, orange peels or a few drops of vanilla extract in water on your stove to produce an appealing aroma throughout your house.

11. Place a dab of lavender, rose, or jasmine essential oil on a cotton ball and place on a small plate or unneeded glass jar lid out of sight in a room to produce a nice scent in a room for days.

12. Use a Q-Tip to dab a drop of essential oil (peppermint, lavender, rose, or jasmine) on a cool light bulb. When the light fixture is turned on and the bulb warmed up, a pleasant scent will be released. You can also try a favorite perfume.

13. Place a couple of drops of your favorite body oil on a light bulb to produce a warm light scent.

13. Where there are stronger odors, place a bowl of white vinegar in the area of the room where the odor is strongest. After approximately 24 hours the odor will be almost unnoticeable and within another 24 hours it should be entirely gone.

14. Use your exhaust fan when you cook, especially when frying food.

15. Keep your oven clean. If you think something might spill during cooking, use a pan to catch the drippings or wipe clean as soon as you are finished cooking.

16. Downsize your kitchen garbage can so that things don’t have time to produce bad odor. Most things can otherwise go into the garburator or go into your recycling bin.

17. Keep pets clean – make sure to keep pets well bathed and clean. Make sure that you have an adequate schedule to clean out litter. Clean up pet accidents as soon as possible.

18. Vacuuming – vacuum regularly; sprinkle carpet deodorizer or baby powder lightly on carpet or area rugs before vacuuming.

19. Keep basemenet dry and properly vented to prevent moisture and poor ventilation from producing a bad smell

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The Soil Element: Cutting a deep vertical slice out of your lawn will reveal at least two soil layers wilth different colors and textures.

Topsoil, or the top layer, contains more organic matter, usually making it darker and looser than the deeper layers.

Subsoil, or the lower level, is ually of a ligheter color and is often hard and poor in nutrients.

Soil is composed of mineral particles and organic material. The texture of soil depends on the proportion and distribution of mineral particles – sand, silt and clay, from largest to smallest. The best soil is a loamy soil contailning all three in ideal proportion. A sandy loam supports plant growth the best. Loam naturally contains a good proportion of air spaces. Loam also absorbs water easily and quickly, yet allows water, air, nutrients and organisms to circulate freely and roots to penetrate easily.

You can tell what type of soil your have by squeezing some of it in a ball. Sandy soil doesn’t hold its shape when pressed. Clay soil forms a lump that holds it shape. Loam forms a ball of soil but breaks easily.

pH: pH represents the level of acidity or alkalinilty of your soil. pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14 with values below 7 being acidic, those above 7 being alkaline and 7 being neutral. Slightly acidc soil (pH 6 to 6.5) allows the soil to release the optimum amount of nutrients. Acidic soils are typically found in areas of high rainfall. Lime can be applied to raise the pH. Sulphur can be added to lower the pH, an occurrence often when the bedrock is limestone. Soil analysis by a professional lab is necessary to know the appropriate corrective action.

The Soil Environment: Soil is home to a large number of insects, spiders, mites, worms and microorganisms. These organisms form the soil’s food-web and play an important role in maintaining soil health and in supporting plant growth.Soil organisms benefit lawn by 1) decomposing lawn clippings and thatch, 2) helping to mix organic material with mineral matter throughout the soil, while creating pockets and channels for water and air to move, and 3) digesting organic material, helping to provide nutrients to plants and retaining nutrients in the root zone.

Lawn maintenance practices affect mroe than just the grass on the surface. Avoid excessive watering as the water fills up air spaces and reduces the oxygen supply in the soil. Avoid over fertilizing as it disrupts the nutrient balance and may decrease the amount of organisms in the soil. Protect beneficial insects and earthworms by reducing the use of pesticides.

What is Grass? Like other vegetation, grass consists of leaves, stems and roots. Blades of grass are leaves that extend out of a sheath at the base where they wrap around the plant stem. The stem and blades grow upwards from a crown found at or near the soil surface. This type of growth allows the grass to tolerate and recover from repeated mowing. A grass plant can recover when it loses roots, leaves or stems, but not when the crown dies. A dense, deep root system is important to support top growth in grass. Grass reproduce by seed and by stolons (above-ground lateral stems) or rhizomes (unerground lateral stems). They also form new shoots known as tillers that are attached to the original plant and that add to the fullness of the lawn.

Promote biodiversity by including a variety of plants and grass species in the landscape. A diverse landscape is better for the environment because it attracts birds, butterflies, and other wildlife, and it can be easier to maintain when the right plants are chosen to suit the conditions.

Healthy lawns are also less susceptible to pest problems. Keep your lawn healthy using good lawn maintenance practices. Healthy lawn will better tolerate drought, temperature extremes and general wear and tear. healthy, vigorous, deep-rooted lawns are less susceptible to pest damage and do not usually require pesticides to control pests. Longer, thicker grass also prevents many pests from invading lawn.

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Mowing – Mow high when it’s dry. Grass cut at a height of 6 to 8 cm (2 1/2 to 3 inches) will develop a deep, extensive root system and grow thicker. Grass this height helps the soil to retain its moisture better.sharpen your mower blade in the spring and keep it sharp. Grass recovers more quickly and easily from a clean cut than when it’s torn.

Leave the lawn clippings on your lawn after mowing. Lawn clippings compost, slowly releasing nitrogen for the grass. Under wet spring conditions, remove thick layers of clippings (over 0.5 cm thick) to avoid smothering your grass.

Watering – Water deeply and infrequently. Apply at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water. Put a container on your lawn to measure how much you’ve watered it. Water when your lawn needs it rather than on a set schedule. Excessive watering can lead to poor growing conditions and disease problems. Consider the soil type and surface features. Grass growing on compacted, fine soil or on slopes requires more frequent light watering.

Early morning is the ideal time for watering. This minimizes water lost through evaporation and wind. Watering in the evening leaves the grass wet for longer, increasing the risk of disease. Grass growing near large trees may need to be watered more frequently because the tree roots absorb much of the soil’s water.

A healthy lawn can survive several weeks in a dormant state. In extended hod dry periods, a lawn may wilt, turn brown and become dormant. Common grass varieties like Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescues will turn green again when regular moisture conditions return. Check the lawn regularly to detect any pests or other problems early. It may be more difficult to detect or differentiate insect damage in a dormant lawn.

Fertilizing – Compost is a great fertilizer that supplies your lawn with nutrients needed for plant growth. Apply compost at any time in the season. Mix it into the soil before seeding or laying sod, or spread it in a thin layer raked over the existing lawn.

Commercial fertilizers usually contailn the three major nutrients: nitrogen (N) to promote leaf growth, phosphorus (P) for root growth, and potassium (K) which is essential for stress resistance. The three numbers on the packaging represent the proportions of these nutrients, for example: 21-7-7 formulation contains 21% nitorgen, and 7% each of phosphorus and potassium.

Fertilizers with a slow-release form of nitrogen are preferred because they release nutrients uniformly and there is less risk that excess fertilizer will leach away from the root zone. All purpose turf fertilizers usually have an N-P-K ratio of 4-1-2. Rates and timing of fertilization can vary with the type of soil, the type of grass, and site and weather conditions. A lower rate is generally used in spring and early summer than in early and late fall. Organic fertilizers release more nutrients as the temperature and moisture levels increase, so you shouldn’t fertilize when conditions are likely to be hot or dry, usually from mid-June to early August. Combination products containing a herbicide and an fertilizer (weed and feed type) should only be considered if your lawn has a widespread weed problem and a nutrient deficiency.

Overseeding and Replacing Sod – Most healthy lawns recover from damage. Depending on the type of grass, vigorously growing lawns will fill in areas that have been thinned by insects or other types of damage. If bare patches do not fill in quickly, weeds may set in.

Overseeding – Regularly spreading grass seed on your lawn will ensure that it remains dense. Overseeding is best done in late summer to early fall. Topdressing with compost or topsoil can be done at the same time. Using the proper type of grass seed is very important for lawns in shady areas.

Replacing Sod – To replace sod: cut out the dead or damaged area to about 2 cm deep. Rake the soil and add some fertilizer. Lay down the new piece of sod. Step on it or roll it to ensure good contact with the soil. Keep the new seed and sod well-watered until the new grass is established.

Aerating – Aerating your lawn allows a better flow of water, air and vital nutrients to the plant roots, making it easier for them to grown. This does not, however, apply to soil types containing clay. Aeration is best done in late summer in conjunction with overseeding and/or topdressing.

Signs that you need to aerate your lawn: 1) ground is hard and compacted; 2) thatch is building up; 3) water does not penetrate well; 4) weeds such as prostrate knotweed and clover are present.

There are two types of mechanical aerators: solid-tined machines that drive spikes into the ground and core machines that removes small plugs of thatch and soil.

Dethatching – Thatch is a tough mixture of dead grass and roots that accumulates above the soil surface. In an healthy lawn, insects, earthworms, beneficial fungi and other microorganisms break down thatch and aerate the soil. Excessive watering, over fertilizing with nitrogen and heavy use of insecticides and fungicides may decrease the populations of soil organisms required to keep thatch levels down. Thatch that is more than 1 cm (1/2) thick can prevent water, air and nutrients from getting to the roots. Too much thatch can also harbour harmful insects and diseases. Remove excess thatch with a heavy rake or de-thatching equipment.

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Any of these can be found in your lawn, but they only become pests if conditions change to favour their increase. Prevention is the best approach for managing pests. This includes many of the cultural practices described for the establishment and for lawn maintenance. If a lawn is kept healthy using good lawn maintenance practices, it will be less susceptible to pest damage and usually will not require pesticides.

Lawn Pest Management – Lawn pest problems should be managed by following Integrated pest management (IPM) principles. IPM puts the emphasis on prevention, looks at all available information and considers all management options before deciding on the most effective, environmentally friendly and cost effective means of managing a lawn pest problem.

Lawns should be checked regularly to detect pests and other problems early. Make sure that pest problems are identified correctly. Beneficial insects may be mistaken for pests. Plant damage may not be caused by pests. Plants can be injured by poor growing conditions, poor maintenance practices, or environmental problems such as road salt of pet urine. The life cycle of pests needs to be identified to help decide when to apply treatments and how to prevent further problems. Once a pest in a lawn has been identified, it must be decided whether the amount of damage requires action. A few weeds or insects in a healthy lawn may not be a cause for concern. Recurring pest problems are often a sing that lawn care practices need to change.

1) Weeds: Healthy lawns are less susceptible to weed problems. They smother weeds and also prevent their seeds from germinating. Before resorting to herbicides, the general conditions of the lawn should be improved by aerating, overseeding and occasionally weeding by hand if you have sensitive plants or a vegetable garden and are worried about spray drift. Tolerating some weeds is a no-cost, no-effort alternative to weed control. Weeds could be a bigger problem in a newly seeded lawn that has not yet established a vigorous stand. Good planning and soil preparation will minimize weed problems and promote quick establishment of the lawn.

2) Insects: In a healthy lawn, beneficial insects can keep pest insects in check. Ants are sometimes considered pests because they make visible mounds (ant hills) on lawns. They do not attack the grass. Some common insect pests found in lawns include: chinch bugs, white grubs, and sod webworms. Chinch bugs prefer dry lawns with excessive thatch. Adult beetles, the source of white grub infestations, prefer sunny south-facing slopes where it is hot and dry. Sod webworms prefer sunny south-facing slopes where it is hot and dry.

3) Diseases: Lawn diseases can be difficult to identify and are often confused with other problems such as poor growing conditions, damage from fertilizer burn, dog urine or road salt. Some of the diseases that may occasionally affect your lawn include powdery mildew, necrotic ring spot, dollar spot, leaf spot and rust.

Good mowing and watering practices as well as using a balanced fertilizer with adequate potassium levels and not too much nitrogen help to prevent lawn diseases. If you’re not too sure about what action a specific problem requires, call a professional lawn maintenance or lawn care company for help.

Fairy rings – Fairy rings are circular or semicircular patches of dead grass with an inner green ring. They usually appear in lawns 5 to 15 years old and can be caused by a number of different fungi. The fungus feeds on the thatch, and the ring grows outward. The fungus is not toxic to the grass, but it prevents water from penetrating into the grass root area causing the grass to die and allowing weeds to take root and infest that area. Fairy rings are difficult to control. To slow their spread, poke holes in the grass surface just outside the dead ring using a garden fork, soak with soapy water and water frequently to increase moisture. To get rid of the rings completely, cut out the dead patch. Re-seed or re-sod the dead areas.

4) Animals: Avoid problems with animal pests by eliminating potential food sources around your yard.

Moles and voles – small animals like moles and voles sometimes tunnel in your lawn in search of food. Tunnelling by moles exposes root systems, then voles and other rodents move in and eat the roots.

Raccoons and skunks – Raccoons and skunks generally dig up your lawn looking for white grubs and other insects. Once insect pests have been managed, racoons and skunks should no longer bother your lawn.

A note on Pesticide Use – Pesticides include herbicides for weeds, insecticides for insects and fungicides for diseases. Their labels provide specific use instructions and describe the conditions under which they can be applied. Most lawn pesticides do not prevent pest problems. They only control pests once they are present.

Minimize the use of pesticides; keep your lawn healthy, use spot treatments rather than broadcast applications, only treat the problem area or plants, and time applications correctly to avoid the need for repeat treatments. That will depend on the susceptible life stage of the pest and environmental conditions.

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For a free estimate on professional Lawn Care in Calgary and area call Ram Cleaning Services @ 403-291-1051